The Times has a really interesting piece about how there are so few fish in Florida waters that seafood joints in the state are importing fish from Asia and elsewhere. One restaurant actually labels it “local” because the distributor who sells it to them is local.

Mr. Hill, 59, a serious-sounding man in a flowered shirt, ran down the list. The salmon was from Norway. The yellowfin tuna? Frozen, from Ecuador. And the dolphin, or mahi mahi? Ecuador as well, Mr. Hill said, adding that in about a month, it could be caught locally.

The problem, of course, is that we’re eating too much fish: The oceans can’t long provide what we’re taking from them, and no one wants to admit that because, well, fish is tasty, and when it doesn’t contain mercury, healthy.

So when we overfish local waters, we fly fish in from around the world—and the environmental consequences of that aren’t so great, either. What would help is a renewed appreciation that fish is a delicacy, not an everyday food….